2007 Williams-Selyem "Litton Estate Vineyard" Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
A spectacular Pinot Noir, but a very young one, and extremely dry. It’s a wine of great structure, with rich acids and tannins framing extraordinarily complex flavors of grilled cherries, strawberries and raspberries, with complicating notes of cola, pomegranates, orange zest, anise, dusty Asian spices and smoky sandalwood. A truly great Pinot Noir from a great vintage that needs time in the bottle to express itself. The vineyard, which is owned by the winery, is only 19 acres, planted to an array of newer and older clones. Best after 2013, if you can keep your hands off.
Here is another dramatic effort from this superb Pinot producer. It stands side by side with its counterpart from the Rochioli Vineyard in layered complexity, and, if anything, drifts even further into the dried violet realm. It is supple, smooth and admirably polished and is just a bit deeper and more obvious than the Rochioli, but like that wine, it will age handsomely for years and years to come.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Medium red. Exotic fruits, cassis, licorice, cola and hints of smoky herbs and cured meat on the high-pitched nose. Then fleshy and pliant in the mouth, offering deep red and dark berry and bitter cherry flavors, with fine-grained tannins contributing shape and grip. For this wine's density and structure there's an alluring sweetness that carries through the long, spicy finish. Cabral told me that this spent 18 months in cask before bottling.
Allen Meadows - Burghound
This is also ripe but more restrained with good fruit density and more aromatic depth to the primarily red berry aromas trimmed in a hint of sandalwood that is also picked up by the delicious and seductively textured flavors that are serious and impressively long. There is just a hint of edginess on the finish but it's sufficiently subtle that it should round out with a few years in bottle. Worth a look. (10/2010)
Trim and spicy, with fragrant, delicate blueberry and black cherry fruit. This is medium-bodied, pure and focused, ending with refined flavors. Drink now through 2014. (Web 2010)