2004 DuMol "Isobel" Green Valley Chardonnay
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
From the Heintz Vineyard, the 2004 Chardonnay Isobel Green Valley is a 500-case cuvee aged 18 months in barrel. It reveals crisp acidity, a steely structure, and beautiful honeysuckle, orange blossom, and subtle smoky characteristics. (RP)
*Two Stars* A bit more withdrawn, but no less complex than its siblings, this big, but tightly wound youngster is packed with concentrated, ripe-apple fruit and filled out with a full measure of comparatively spicy oak. It is both weighty and a bit ragged in feel, and its mix of alcohol and acidity makes for a little more coarseness than needs be at the end. Happily, it has the fruity substance required for real success, and either age or service with richly sauced seafoods will make moot its slight lack of polish.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Full yellow. Very ripe fruit notes of apricot and papaya complicated by smoke and truffle on the rather reticent nose. Rich, sweet and a bit exotic but still rather tightly wound, and showing its backbone today. This densely packed chardonnay, which struck me as more thoroughly ripe than the 2003 version, finishes brisk and persistent. (ST)