2001 Clos Mogador, Priorat
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2001 Clos Mogador was described as 'simply sensational' when first tasted by the most illustrious taster from Monkton. I would not disagree one bit. At 11 years 'young,' it remains beautifully defined and fresh on the nose, with vibrant red berry fruit, slate and a hint of brine. The palate is medium-bodied with a wonderful entry: blackberry, black pepper, a touch of cumin and sea salt. It is blessed with outstanding definition and precision, with a gentle grip on the finish and dried blood on the aftertaste. This is a profound Priorat that has barely started to show what it can do! Clos Mogador needs no introduction. Rene Barbier was a pupil of Jean-Claude Berrouet and is one of the "founding fathers" in Priorat as part of the "Gratallops group." I met him for the first time at his home, located at the bottom of a never-ending winding dirt track and surrounded by vines. He was accompanied by his wife and energetic son, also named Rene and married to Sara Perez (see Mas Martinet.) Their 20-hectare dry farmed, vineyard is located on schistous slate and quartz soil (llicorella) and planted with 40% Garnacha (80-year-old vines) , 20% Carinena, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Syrah. The wine is raised in Nevers and Allier oak with minimal intervention. (NM)
*Editors' Choice* The 2002 is the current vintage (reviewed in June), but this wine is superior and is just now entering its prime; call it red nectar with a cement foundation. Mogador offers the purest Priorat fruit going, and the ’01 is ethereal, with chewy blackberry, chocolate and vanilla flavors along with horsehide, black pepper and tobacco on the finish.
*Highly Recommended and #4 of Top 100 Wines of 2003* Suave, sophisticated, rich and concentrated, but remains balanced and polished, with bright blueberry and blackberry flavors supported by toasty, vanilla-scented oak. A modern wine with great structure and harmony. Best after 2005.
Very deep crimson, still with lots of purple. Very marked llicorella character on the nose - extremely minerally. Lovely top note of life with marked but certainly not excessive acidity to lift all this weight of fruit. Less forward than the other wine but extremely lively and vivacious. For the long term. 18/20 points.