Hidalgo Pastrana Manzanilla Pasada Sanlucar de Barrameda
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The golden-colored NV Manzanilla Pasada Pastrana is a Manzanilla produced from Palomino grapes from the Pastrana vineyard within the pago Miraflores, aged under flor, but finishing its upbringing in a semi-oxidative way as the flor weakens, starts to die off, and bottled with a total average of 12 year of age. It has a distinct nose redolent of peanuts, smoke, bitter almonds, quince and olives, combining biological and oxidative notes. The palate shows a medium- to full-bodied wine, very powerful and strongly-flavored, ending with a smoky finish. A fine nose and a powerful palate. A unique wine. 24,000 bottles are produced yearly. Drink 2013-2015.
Wine & Spirits
The color of 12-karat gold, this pasada manzanilla opens with the aroma of fresh-baked bread and apricots. It's as rich as those scents lead you to expect, with saltwater and apricot flavor notes and a kind of dusty density from extended aging. Exotic and long, a kind of manzanilla indulgence.
*Editors' Choice* The people at Hidalgo in Sanlúcar have taken dry Manzanilla and have let it age until it has turned golden and mature. The bouquet is full of exotic oils, nuts and some horsehide. In the mouth, it's a touch salty and astringent, but there are buttery, sweet undertones and great focus. And on the back end the pure flavor of mushroom and almonds is uncanny. Sleek, acidic and likely perfect with lobster or shrimp bisque.
Fine, complex and long, this is fresh, balanced and very vinous. It's also very fruity, with apple, pear and olive flavors that pick up a saltiness on the finish. Well done.
The finest lots of Manzanilla from Hidalgo's best vineyard, the Pastrana, are set aside for extra aging to make this Pasada. This wine has an average age of 10 years, twice as old as most Manzanilla soleras. The result is a wine with all of the briny freshness of this special terroir in Sanlucar de Barrameda, but with an added weight and richness which truly makes this one of the finest dry sherries money can buy. It's a real stunner and highly recommended. (Joe Manekin, K&L Sherry buyer)