1998 Margaux, Margaux
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Medium ruby. Cool, floral aromas of red berries, violet, cocoa powder, graphite and spicy oak, along with a whiff of smoked meat. Juicy, sharply delineated and austere; a classic, adamantly dry claret with superb intensity and grip. This is beginning to close up, unlike the '99. But really expands on the very long, perfumed finish. Tannins are dusty but even.
Complex aromas of crushed blackberries and toasted oak, with hints of tar. Full-bodied, with big, chewy tannins and hints of vanilla bean and coffee underneath. A bit chewy still, and needs a couple more years to resolve the angular tannins. (2009)
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 1998 Margaux's color is a dense ruby/purple. The wine is tannic and austere, but elegant, with notes of asphalt, blackberries, acacia flowers, and sweet, toasty oak. Subtle, rich, nicely-textured, and medium-bodied, it is built for the long haul. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2030.
We tasted this wine on two separate occasions, and both times we agreed that Margaux made the best wine in the appellation and one of the Medoc's finest wines overall. It has tons of power, but with time it appears this wine should recapture some of the finesse that you'd hope for and expect. Rich, plummy character with hints of spice and tons of concentration.