Graham's 20-year-old Tawny Port
*Top 100 Wines of 2013* A complex and full-bore tawny, with deep, intense flavors of orange cream, glazed apricot, baked peach and roasted pineapple that are balanced by concentrated chocolate and toffee notes. The bright finish is filled with spice and supported by fresh acidity.
This is a hugely dry, burnt style, very concentrated. The licorice and bitter coffee flavors are dense, layered and well balanced with the acidity. A serious wine that demands attention.
Dried fruits - fig and raisin, plus caramel and toffee. Long and nutty to finish. Regal. Slight chewiness, and fuller body than the 10 year old. The word 'fresh' is overused, but it applies especially here, where there is significant development and sugar, yet the palate finishes cleansed. 17/20 points.
Graham's was founded in 1820 in Portugal's Douro Valley, and sits among the country's elite Port houses. For their aged Tawny Port bottlings, Graham's sources grapes from the pure schist soils of vineyards in the hot, dry mesoclimate at the heart of the Douro Valley. The 20-year is a distinct step up from Graham's 10-year, with a signature nuttiness and powerful thrust of flavors highlighted by orange peel and spice. Fine acidity drives the finish, which should really be graded on a different scale than what other wines would consider 'long.' One begins to think it may never end.