2004 Billecart-Salmon Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne
** Cellar Selection ** This is a superb Blanc de Blancs that boasts great minerality, texture and intense fruit flavor. It’s a finely structured wine, now approaching maturity with its apple, citrus and green pear notes. Lingering in the mouth, it is a beautifully long-lasting, pure wine. Drink until 2018 and probably beyond.
100% Chardonnay grapes from Avize, Chouilly and Mesnil sur Oger. Almost a third of the wine was vinified in oak barrel. About two-thirds underwent malolactic fermentation - was this a factor in my finding the wine, substantial enough to be a wine not a champagne, just a little richer than I was expecting in a 2004 all-Chardonnay wine. It goes for power rather than refreshment and refinement but should not disappoint anyone. It strikes me more as a food wine than a racy aperitif.
This top notch bottling from Billecart is exclusively grand cru and contains fruit from Avize, Chouilly and Mesnil. It is 15% barrel fermented, and surprisingly creamy for how much fabulous chalky acidity it has. (Gary Westby, K&L Wines Champagne buyer)