2012 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros "Côte de Bougerots" (Pre-Arrival)
Allen Meadows - Burghound
(from a 2.2 ha parcel at the bottom section of the vineyard; even so, the vineyard is so steep here that it must be worked entirely by hand as tractors would be dangerous to use). This is every bit as elegant as the Valmur with a cool, pure and ripe nose of white flowers, lemon, wet stone and sea breeze. There is a driving minerality to the gorgeously textured, intense and tension-filled medium weight flavors that possess excellent volume while sliding gracefully into a bone dry cuts-like-a-knife finish. This just exudes essence of Kimmeridgian as blind it would be just about impossible to guess anything but Chablis.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
(the yield here was 25 hectoliters per hectare in 2012, vs. 45 in 2011): Pale greenish-yellow. Subdued aromas of crushed rock, menthol and mint. Bright, dense, rich and backward, if without quite the sheer mineral tension of the Valmur. Penetrating citrus and stone flavors carry through to a whiplash of a finish. A pure expression of stone with terrific intensity. Winemaker Seguier noted that "we would have lost the terroir character if we had picked these grapes later."
The 2012 Chablis Bougros Cote Bouguerots shows the personality of this steep, south-facing site in spades. Next to the straight Bougros, the Cote Bouguerots, is richer, deeper and more overt in its fruit. A racy, intense Chablis the Cote Bouguerots is all about volume on the palate, while floral and mineral notes play supporting roles. Layers of fruit fill out the broad-shouldered frame nicely.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
A strikingly pungent alliance of peppermint, pennyroyal, lemon rind and chalk dust surges from the glass of Fevre’s 2012 Chablis Bougros Cote de Bouguerots – tasted some six months before bottling – and allies itself on a firm, bright palate with crab apple and toasted shrimp shells. Hints of noble fungus and bittersweet floral perfume emerge as the glass stands open, but the emphasis here remains on tart fruits, green herbs, and stuff that requires a mineral vocabulary to imperfectly capture. This energetic but austere cru grips with formidable, pungent, brash tenacity. Its aptitude for refreshing, invigorating and tapping the salivary glands already, thankfully, triumphs over its austerity. Look for excitement through at least 2022.