2006 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Very rich and densely packed, with a huge core of raspberry ganache, macerated plum and hoisin sauce notes wrapped by dark licorice, Turkish coffee and charred applewood. The long finish ripples with tannins, but this is velvety and well-integrated. Needs some time. Rather serious juice. Best from 2011 through 2033.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape exhibits a dense purple color as well as an expressive bouquet of black currants, licorice, kirsch, meat juices, and hints of spice box as well as lavender. Full-bodied, opulent, rich, and stunningly concentrated, it is one of the vintage’s finest efforts. This beauty should provide plenty of pleasure over the next 15+ years. Always one of my favorite Chateauneuf du Pape estates to visit, proprietor Jean-Paul Dauman has made Domaine de la Vieille Julienne a brilliant reference point for this appellation. These are traditionally made, extraordinarily concentrated Chateauneuf du Papes created from old vine, biodynamically farmed sites and made from minuscule yields, hands off, no SO2 during vinification, and aged in neutral tanks or old wood. I thought the 2007s, as strong as they were, were matched by what this estate achieved in 2006. This is one of a handful of vineyards where the 2006s do not take a back seat to what is essentially the greatest vintage of my lifetime in the southern Rhône, 2007. I was surprised to learn that there will be no 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve, a wine that comes from 103-year-old Grenache vines planted in pure sand that is aged in old foudres and tanks. Jean-Paul told me there was really no difference in the character of that wine when compared to the wines from their other parcels, so they felt a separate cuvee was not merited.