2009 Domaine Karydas Xinomavro Naoussa (last of vintage) (Previously $26)
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2009 Naoussa, i.e., Xinomavro, was aged in French oak for 16 months (only 30% new) and sourced from 34-year-old vines. This opens rather mute and unassuming, but after an hour of air, it fleshed out nicely in the glass, and the structure emerged as well. Crisp and tight, it is an earthy wine that shows good purity of fruit and loads of character. It is perhaps a little fleshier than the 2008, if not quite as focused. The tannins become fiercer with time, but the wine becomes more complex as well. This is a wine that really should be cellared for a few years for best results. If you’re looking for sweet, soft and easy, look elsewhere. There were 1,000 cases produced. Drink 2014-2024.
Wine & Spirits
Petros Karydas makes firm, traditionally styled Naoussa wines at the winery his father started in 1994. The 2009, from a rather wet vintage, is dark and earthy, with a bit of the tomato-leaf character common to xinomavro. It feels compact and staunch, with crunchy acidity and firm tannins that make it palate whetting. Kamal Kouri at Molyvos in NYC suggested pairing it with a lamb shank over saffron risotto.