2009 Goyo García Viadero "Viñas de Anguix" (Viñas de Arcilla) Ribera del Duero (Previously $60)
Wine & Spirits
Like an exhibitionist, this Ribera shows off its freshness for anyone who cares to see. Floral in its scent, vibrantly refreshing in its red fruit flavor and taut texture, this is, above all, easy to drink. But the word "easy" in this context does not mean "simple." The layers of flavors and aromas last in a juicy red, with more vivacity than most any Ribera del Duero wine you’re likely to come across: The wine feels electric and agile. Anguix grows on clay and limestone soils at 2,300 feet in elevation, the lowest site for García Viadero’s three single-vineyard wines. He believes this vineyard produces the "most Ribera" wine of his reds, the ripest and most concentrated. His others are even further off the charts.
Goyo García Viadero belongs to a storied wine family; together with his sister Yolanda he owns Bodegas Valduero, one of the original wineries to form the Ribera del Duero D.O. back in the early 1980s. While he has made wine at Valduero for a number of years and continues to help out there, his main focus these days is on his own label. Here, Goyo produces Ribera del Duero wines that absolutely sing with intense Tempranillo flavors complicated by unusually high levels of acidity and subtle, enveloping aromatics. How does he do it? His secrets include: only using fruit from very old, "en vaso" trained vines; harvesting for acidity (as opposed to looking primarily for ripeness); co-fermenting with white grape varieties (as was traditionally done in this and many other regions up until fairly recently); using only older barrels ("a new barrel for me is around 5 years old," says Goyo); and eliminating the usage of SO2 during elevage. Arcilla is Spanish for clay. The wine is so named because the 80 year-old vineyard is planted on sandy clay soils. This is the most intense and lushly fruited wine of Goyo's Ribera del Duero trio. That said, compared to other Riberas it is still more like a Chambolle-Charmes! 100% Tinto Fino for this beautiful, elegant wine. (Joe Manekin, K&L Spanish Wine Buyer)