2007 Friggiali Brunello di Montalcino (Elsewhere $40)
A wine with dried fruits and chocolate and hints of wood. Full body, with chewy tannins and a long finish. Slightly monolithic now but structured. Needs time in bottle to build complexity. Better in 2014.
Bright delivery with aromas of cola, root beer, humus, crème de cassis, forest berry and wild raspberry. It shows finely textured tannins with a bitter almond or bitter chocolate aftertaste. Brambly, sharp, acidic and well defined.
It’s not unusual for producers at Montalcino to own plots in different parts of the DOCG zone, but the tendency is to blend wines from different vineyards rather than highlight single terroir features with separate bottlings. The Peluso-Centolani family is an exception to this rule, having always bottled its wines from the Pietranera estate at Castenuovo dell’Abate separately to those from Friggiali, which is located on the slopes immediately south of Montalcino. Pietranera ages in French oak and has the structure, depth and intensity of Castelnuovo. Friggiali has the aroma and the racy elegance of Montalcino and the touch of tradition given by the use of medium-size Slavonian oak barrels. Riccardo Cotarella is the consultant winemaker, and it shows. RB ‘A herbaceous and floral nose with pure berry fruit. Austere tannins provide a dry and precise palate. The finish is long and concentrated. Great potential.’ RG ‘A light, fresh nose bursting with cherry fruit. The elegant palate is medium bodied with firm tannins and a dry finish.’ JH ‘Delicate aromas of savoury dried peaches are warm and inviting. A well-structured palate offers firm but not overwhelming tannins. Suggests all the typical elements of a Brunello di Montalcino.’ Decanter average score: 18.5pts/20 (95/100pts) Individual judge’s scores: RB 19pts/20 JH 18.5pts/20 RG 18pts/20