2006 Thienot "Cuvée Garance" Brut Blanc de Rouges Champagne
Flavors of crème de cassis, red licorice, toasted hazelnut, honey, apricot and smoky mineral are finely knit,focused by vibrant acidity and a lively bead. Accessible now, but this has the structure for cellaring. Drink now through 2026.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Pale gold with a hint of peach skin. Pungent aromas of blood orange, rose and buttered toast, with a hint of star anise in the background. At once lively and deep, offering fresh citrus fruit and red berry flavors and a bitter rhubarb nuance. Closes clean and long, with resonating spice and floral notes.
A rare Champagne made only from red grapes, this dry wine is marked by an intense acidity that needs time to soften. At the moment, lemon flavor dominates, but with time, the crispness of fruit should round out. It’s a wine that should age for many years. Drink from 2015.
This bottling is named after Garance Thienot, who handles the communications and marketing for the family firm. They have chosen to call this Champagne "blanc de rouges" instead of "blanc de noirs" because of the effort that they put into keeping the wine feminine. This is 100% Pinot Noir and a large proportion of the fruit comes from the grand cru Ay that the family purchased from Krug as well as from Garance's own personal vines in the village of Tauxieres, on the border with Bouzy. This is one of the most intriguing, delicate examples of pure Pinot Champagne that I have tasted, and the quality of the fruit reminded me very much of Volnay even if the wine was straw golden in color. This very elegant, lifted wine won't make you doubt it's all Pinot Noir composition and the long chalky finish will leave you wanting more. Like all of the Thienot vintage wines, this bottling is entirely estate grown from the families nearly seventy acres of vines. This was one of the discoveries of my 2013 trip! (Gary Westby, K&L Champagne buyer)