2012 ColleStefano Verdicchio di Matelica
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Pale straw-green. Knockout aromas of quince, pear, white peach and white flowers are complicated by lemony minerality on the vibrant, captivating nose. Rich and broad on entry, then explosive in the middle palate, saturating the mouth with bright, lively floral and fresh citrus flavors that are intensified by penetrating acidity. Finishes extremely long and creamy-rich, expanding to coat the palate and teeth with lingering white peach and floral flavors. The bright acidity conveys an almost weightless mouthfeel to this seamless, rich, extremely concentrated wine. You can tell that owner Fabio Marchionni studied white wine in Germany. This is but one of many outstanding vintages for this wine. Let me be clear: I think it is probably Italy's single greatest white wine buy.
ColleStefano is situated in a hilly belt in the hinterland of the Marches, 420 m above sea-level. This narrow land is watered by the Esino river and bound on the east and west by the mountain range of the Appennini Umbro-Marchigiani. Not affected by the mitigating influence of the Adriatic Sea, the region is characterized by a cool, dry microclimate with a dramatic day/night temperature range. This is ideal for the growing of Verdicchio di Matelica, which has been cultivated in this district since ancient times and characteristically ripens late in the season. ColleStefano's vineyards are vineyards are organically farmed. Lack of malolactic fermentation keeps this wine fresh and bright, with fine acid and structure. A pale yellow wine with greenish tones and a delicate scent of country herbs and apple, its taste has a fresh trace of tartness which makes this wine particularly fragrant and food-friendly.