2007 Vaeni Xinomavro Naoussa
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2007 Xinomavro (which is listed on the front as just Naoussa, per appellation protocol) was oak aged for 12 months. This earthy wine smells more of tank and earth than oak. It is relatively traditional Xinomavro – lots of everything, tannins, earthiness, acidity. Despite its late release and its modest price range, it is quite powerful, still dusty, quite astringent on the finish. It is even more intense than the winery’s lower-level offerings (and they were no slouches). All caution aside, for a regular Xinomavro at a very modest price point, this is a lot of wine for the price. Have your expectations in order, though. In this price range, a consumer may be expecting easy, sweet and 'pop ‘n’ pour,' but right at the moment I’d say instead that it could well use some cellaring. In the long run, its modest depth and concentration may not balance out the tannins adequately, but there will be moments when wine geeks will think that this was a pretty fine deal. This will be a style that will make lovers of old style Nebbiolo happiest. That said, this does have something to prove in the cellar. It might even deserve an uptick. Drink 2014-2022.
Mint, cedar and clove aromas are followed by pepper, clove and black fruit flavors. It’s not overly complex, but it offers distinctive indigenous character, and it will pair nicely with grilled meat.
The kirsch and boysenberry flavors are lively and a touch tannic, with lingering notes of dried cherry. The tight finish offers notes of dried herbs and hints of menthol.
Vaeni is one of the most successful oo-ops in Greece. Established in 1983, nearly fifty percent of the Naoussa production is crushed and produced here.