2012 Sigalas Assyrtiko Santorini
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2012 Santorini, the 100% Assyrtiko flagship, is a big boy this year, clocking in at 14.5% alcohol, an alcohol spike compared to their norms...On opening, this seemed not to miss a beat. It is dense and powerful, quite impressive and concentrated on first taste. It makes you say 'wow' in some respects. It is, however, lacking some of the finesse and minerality this bottling typically shows and it seems very ripe... I suspect a lot of folks who are less impressed with minerality and finesse and prefer more ripeness and concentration are going to be mightily impressed with it anyway. This will be interesting to track in the cellar...
The beeswax, dried apricot and pear notes are vibrant and expressive in this medium-bodied white from Greece. Intense ruby grapefruit flavors fill the snappy finish. Drink now through 2017.
From the importer: "Minerality is evident, as a result of Santorini's unique terroir. Quite 'austere' as wine, with the acidity being the back-bone of the wine, allowing it to age. Petrol notes and honey-suckle appear in aged Assyrtikos, similar to the German and Alsatian Rieslings. Typical, white wine vinification techniques, in stainless steel tanks, under controlled temperature. A certified organically farmed vineyard on the island of Santorini, Sigalas is producing some of the most sought after white wines in Greece. These intensely aromatic whites, based on the indigenous Asirtiko grape, are grown in the volcanic soils of Santorini, consisting of cinders, rust, lava and pumice stone. These wines have excellent structure, good acidity and a long, full flavored finish. With a unique growing method, whereby the vines are trained into a cylindrical shape, the fruit ripens gently within the basket to protect it from the strong ocean winds. High humidity at night allows for just enough moisture intake for the grapes to develop and the soil structure and lack of nutrients ensure distinct minerality in the wines."