2009 Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume (Pre-Arrival)
Bold, lush and tropical in feel, with creamed papaya and mango notes seamlessly gliding together, while coconut, green plum, ginger, quince and white peach flavors fill in the background. Offers a succulent finish, but stays pure and steady thanks to perfectly embedded acidity. Best from 2015 through 2030
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
I tasted the Baumard 2009 Quarts de Chaume in its final blend and on the eve of filtration and bottling. Yeasty and fermentative overtones as well as a radish-like expression of botrytis in the nose were backed up by scents of quince preserves and herbal distillates which then coalesce on a viscous, honeyed, creamy palate and together with alkaline and wet stone notes make for a metaphorically cool and laid-back impression rather than a torrifactive one. This lacks the senses of citricity and salinity that helped enliven the 2008 rendition, with its similarly almost smothering sweetness, but there is a marvelous ethereal dimension to the concentration exhibited here as well as a sense of grounding in schist-licking minerality that are in themselves remarkable. In the end, it may simply take years for the sense of sweetness here to back off to the point where the wine begins to demonstrate its full potential complexity and a balance that – for me at least – would encourage repeated sipping. It doesn’t have to be this way with a wine from material this off-the-charts in must weight. But perhaps the acidity and extract possible on schist in this vintage cannot be compared with the balance that was achieved by a few stratospherically ripe Vouvrays and Montlouis of the 2009 vintage. I would in any event not be the least worried that this wine might begin showing signs of decline over the next 20 years.