2010 DuMol "Eddie's Patch" Russian River Valley Syrah
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
DuMol’s 2010 Syrah Eddie’s Patch Hoppe-Kelly Vineyard is beautifully centered. Savory herbs, licorice, graphite, menthol and blackberries all jump from the glass. Vibrant and totally alive, the 2010 stands out for its focus and sheer verve. Another year or two in bottle should only help the 2010 show even better. Layers of fruit build to the explosive, intense finish. Simply put, this is dazzling juice. Wow! Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Winemaker Andy Smith describes 2009 as a “sweet, forward vintage,” while 2011 is more “dynamic and commercial.” Smith reserves his highest praise for 2010, which he calls his favorite among the three current vintages. In 2011, Smith bulked out 20% of his Pinot Noirs, including the entire production of the Eoin. All the 2011 Pinots came in before the rains. Smith used whole clusters only for the Aidan, as botrytis was an issue in all the other Pinot vineyards. The Charles Heintz Chardonnay came in after the rains. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to taste the 2011 Syrahs, as the final blends had not yet been put together at the time of this tasting. In broad terms, the DuMol Chardonnays are all fermented and aged in barrel, with no lees stirring. Some of the wines are aged in slightly larger 300-liter barrels, and at times the malolactic fermentations are partly blocked, which results in wines that are texturally rich but also full of energy, a combination that is rare and hard to achieve.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
(made with a third whole clusters and 43% new oak): Glass-staining purple. Cherry compote, cassis and blueberry on the nose, with hints of olive, violet and vanilla gaining strength with air. Big, mouthfilling and chewy, with surprising finesse and lift to its fleshy black and blue fruit and floral pastille flavors. Velvety and expansive syrah, with supple tannins giving support and shape to the impressively long, smoky-sweet finish.
*Two Stars* Fully ripe, very outgoing and very much showing the kind of generous fruit and oaky richness that we have come to expect from DuMOL, this year's Syrah from "eddie's patch" is a big, slightly viscous, decidedly concentrated offering that is ever so slightly hushed in specific varietal spice. That said, it earns fine marks for its juicy volume and insistence, and its hard-to-ignore tannins serve as an important reminder that its best lies some years ahead.
Offers a tight-knit mix of crushed rock, dried berry, floral scents and hints of violets. Complex, if on a modest scale. Ends with a minerally edge. Drink now through 2022. 415 cases made.
The 2010 Eddie's Patch Syrah was hand-harvested in mid-October from the Hoppe-Kelly vineyard. The wine was fermented on native yeast before being aged for 17 months in 43% new French oak hogsheads. The winery compares the vintage to their 2005 bottling, and the winemaker writes of the 2010, "Saturated purple color. Initially fresh and bright: cola, raspberry, cherry and mint then darker olive, blackberry, game and dried herbs. Sweet and savory flavors intertwine nicely on palate - blackcurrant, black pepper, sweet tobacco leaf - drier than the nose suggests. Maintains floral inner mouth perfume. Elegantly framed structure, expanding nuanced finish. Cellar for a year and decant off the sediment for an hour before serving. Drink between 2013 and 2024."