2010 DuMol Estate Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2010 Pinot Noir Estate DuMol Estate is another of the more elegant, textured wines in the range. It captures a highly appealing stylistic middle ground between the Ryan and the Widdoes, with the aromatics and silkiness of the former and the fruit density of the latter. Sweet and perfumed through to the finish, the DuMol Estate is pure sexiness in the glass. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2025. Winemaker Andy Smith describes 2009 as a “sweet, forward vintage,” while 2011 is more “dynamic and commercial.” Smith reserves his highest praise for 2010, which he calls his favorite among the three current vintages. In 2011, Smith bulked out 20% of his Pinot Noirs, including the entire production of the Eoin. All the 2011 Pinots came in before the rains. Smith used whole clusters only for the Aidan, as botrytis was an issue in all the other Pinot vineyards. The Charles Heintz Chardonnay came in after the rains. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to taste the 2011 Syrahs, as the final blends had not yet been put together at the time of this tasting. In broad terms, the DuMol Chardonnays are all fermented and aged in barrel, with no lees stirring. Some of the wines are aged in slightly larger 300-liter barrels, and at times the malolactic fermentations are partly blocked, which results in wines that are texturally rich but also full of energy, a combination that is rare and hard to achieve.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
(55% new oak): Saturated ruby. Deeply pitched aromas of cherry-cola, licorice and incense, with a spicy note adding vivacity. Broad and intensely flavored, offering palate-staining dark fruit flavors and an energizing lick of blood orange. Chewy and focused on the impressively long finish, which features dusty tannins and clinging dark berry character.
This bottling from DuMol comes from the younger vines on their Russian River estate. It is aged for 15 months in 44% new French oak barrels, which add a veil of spice and subtle toffee tones to the wine, which is floral and fresh, with savory herb and black cherry aromas and flavors. In the mouth there are deeper notes of black olive and blue fruit, with dusty soil and orange zest to give it lift. Still youthfully firm, give this some air or lay down for a few years in your wine fridge.