2008 Meyer-Fonné "Hinterburg de Katzenthal" Pinot Gris Vendage Tardive 500ml (Previously $45)
A vibrant and silky wine, with bright acidity framing the flavors of poached apple and pear, mango, blanched almond, porcini mushroom and candied orange peel. This shows lovely integration and offers a long, lip-smacking finish of ground spice and citrus zest notes. Drink now through 2023.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Overripe musk- and Persian melons, quince preserves, and brown spices seem to lie heavily over the glass of Meyer’s 2008 Pinot Gris Hinterburg de Katzenthal Vendange Tardive, then saturate a creamy, sultry palate. You might at this point be thinking what I was: "as if the ‘regular’ Hinterburg Pinot Gris were not V.T.-like and sweet enough ??" But strong salinity rescues the finish, rendering it truly mouthwatering, while tart and pungent suggestions of rhubarb preserve and crystallized ginger enter to serve for further invigoration and engage in a vibrant, prolonged finishing interaction of overripe, tart, mineral, and spice characteristics that sounds like a recipe for confusion but ends up exhilarating. There was almost no botrytis insists Meyer, but rather the desiccation of healthy, already tiny berries, whose acidity and high skin-to-juice ratio one certainly tastes past the mid-palate. Here is one of those amazing, almost freakish Pinots Gris of the 2008 vintage that ought to be worth following for two decades if not longer. But it really deserves 3-5 years of rest, I think, before it will even point clearly toward its longer-term future.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Bright yellow-gold. Exotic aromas of nectarine and brown spices. Silky, sweet and plush but with strong juicy acidity (9 g/l r.s.) countering the wine's exotic character. With its slightly earthy element, this seems a little less pristine than the basic version from this vineyard. More intense and more obviously structured but a bit less agreeable today and in need of patience.
From importer Kermit Lynch: "It’s all about the details at Meyer-Fonné, with an emphasis on tradition and respect for terroir. The winery and family home is in the village of Katzenthal, known for its distinctive granite soils. Meyer is a master at the art of blending and astutely applies this skill in mixing the wine from various parcels into complex, balanced cuvées. He also believes in raising his wines on fine lees in large, older foudres, as was the tradition in Alsace. All of Meyer’s bottlings are characterized by stunning aromatics and a signature backbone of minerality and nerve. Racy and elegant, his wines are difficult to resist young but have all the right qualities for the cellar. For aromatic and textural seductiveness, no one in Alsace can top Meyer-Fonné."