2011 Primitivo Quiles "Cono 4" Monastrell Alicante
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Bright ruby. Straightforward red fruit flavors show good energy and pick up a musky, earthy quality with air. Jammy raspberry and cherry on the supple palate; very pliant if somewhat shapeless. Finishes smooth and a bit warm, with no obvious tannins and a hint of licorice. Plenty of lush fruit here but I'd like a bit more definition.
Here is a perfect example of what Spain's many lesser-known D.O.s are capable of when good vineyards are combined with sensible, traditionally-minded work in the cellar. Composed of 100% Monastrell, this wine is all black olives and meaty, savory characteristics on the nose, with a savory dark fruited palate that also boasts balanced acidity, very good minerality and a discreet orange peel aspect on the finish. Wine made from Monastrell grapes, picked at the right time, fermented and aged in 80-year-old oak foudres, sure does taste good. Try this with braised meat.