2011 Bodegas Casa Juan Señor de Lesmos "Cuarteto" Rioja

There is a wonderful element of whimsy and joy at this tiny, family bodega located in Laguardia. The elephant logo, the on-site African art museum, as well as the name (there is no Señor de Lesmos, as it turns out) all speak to the family's joie de vivre and sense of humor. There is nothing funny about the quality of these wines, though. All estate fruit, hand harvested and carefully vinified with native yeasts, this is a hand sewn wine with the purity, texture and elegance to prove it. Cuarteto is a classic, Alavesa style "maceración carbonica" wine where the whole clusters of grapes are thrown into vats and the CO2 enables an intracellular fermentation. The difference between this wine and its peers (as well as many Beaujolais) is that the fermentation is entirely achieved with native yeasts and the aging occurs in concrete vats. As a result this wine has a fresh and subtly jammy nose, with hints of dried herbs, and a peppery, spicy, cherry fruited palate, with surprising structure. I have yet to taste an unoaked Rioja that even approaches the Cuarteto in quality; the wine is a joy to drink and represents real value.