2007 Ariston Aspasie Brut Champagne
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Light, bright gold. Musky aromas and flavors of poached pear, peach pit, toasted nuts and honey. Deeply pitched, chewy orchard fruit flavors show good power and pick up an anise note with air. Closes broad and long, leaving a warm, toasty note behind.
This great bottle of vintage Champagne is made from 25 year old vines on the Ariston's property. He uses his oldest plots for non-vintage wines and says they are too old to show the character of the year as too much of the plant is underground an unaffected by the weather, prefering these mature but not ancient wines for his vintage. This wine is a blend of 1/3 each Chardonnay, Meunier and Pinot Noir from estate vineyards in the sleepy northwest village of Broulliet. It is dosed low at just 9 grams per liter, and is very lively and precise. The first thing in my notebook when tasting at the property was that it reminded me of the 2004 Veuve Clicquot "La Grande Dame" that I tasted earlier that afternoon. This spectacular wine has a pale gold color and is very subtle compared to past vintages, with very nice texture and clean nutty flavors. (Gary Westby, K&L Champagne Buyer)