2010 Jacques Puffeney Trousseau "Cuvée Les Berangeres" Arbois Rouge
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
2010 Arbois Trousseau Les Berangeres smells of semi-ripe black raspberry and fennel tinged with new leather, black tea, game and lacquer. Slightly rustic in tannin but indomitably juicy and lively, this spare but spirited red finishes with an invigoratingly tart berry edge... Jacques Puffeney of Montigny-les-Arsures is among the Jura’s most prestigious, engaging, and (thanks to the rotund amplitude of both his torso and white-bearded visage) easily recognized vignerons, and crafts wines no less distinctive - if much less massive - than their author. With the exceptions of Pinot Noir, vin jaune, and his few sweet wines - all of which are matured in older barriques - Puffeney relies on ancient foudres, of which I have not seen such a collection as his outside of Alsace or Chateauneuf-du-Pape; and he is favorably inclined to long elevage even for non-oxidative lots, which can themselves thus come off as if influenced by flor or other living denizens of the cask. Puffeney’s reds, too - often cited as among the region’s best - are bottled significantly later than the regional norm.