2009 Domaine de la Noblaie "Pierre de Tuffe" Chinon

This is rich and pure, with just a kiss of bacony toast guiding the core of crushed plum, cherry and currant fruit. Lots of sweet tapenade and lightly toasted spice notes fill in on the finish. A modern rendition that doesn't forsake its origin. Drink now through 2015. 300 cases made. –JM (4/ 2012)

Another fabulous Chinon from the folks at Domaine de la Noblaie, this comes from Cabernet Franc vines planted before World War II that are hand-harvested and then allowed to macerate in a vat carved out of the limestone tufa back in the 15th century. Aged for a year in 500-liter barrels and then finished for another eight months in tank, this is serious Chinon, with aromas of blackberry and black raspberry, plus toasty vanilla and nutmeg spice. The fruit is plush and supple on the palate, with mouthcoating tannins and lots of spice. Try this with hearty stews or something off the grill now, with some decanting, and over the next decade.