2005 La Pèira en Damaisèla "Las Flors de la Pèira" Coteaux du Languedoc-Terrasses du Larzac (Elsewhere $50)

Continuing to explore Right-Bank Bordeaux allusions, the 2005 Coteaux du Languedoc Terrasses du Larzac Las Flors de la Peira displays a Cabernet Franc-like combination of gardenia, machine oil, and crushed stone to accompany its abundance of black fruits, toasted nuts, and chocolate. With terrific richness on the palate, like a mingling of nut paste and fruit preserves, this incorporates a roasted meat dimension that was there already 18 months ago, but does not (yet, at least) have a carnal counterpart in any of the younger wines from this cellar. Suggestions of caramel enhance the sweet, baked sense of dark, rich fruit, yet an element of sappy refreshment and levity carries into its long finish. Prior to bottling, I under-estimated this wine’s potential. It represents an impressive performance in the context of its vintage - not to mention for an inaugural wine - and should be worth following for at least 3-5 more years, although obviously with a new project, only time will truly tell. (6/ 2009)

"Like these workers of yesteryear, our aim is to take what nature, and this stony soil has to offer and try to find its most beautiful expression." This is the motto of La Pèira en Damaisèla, a small domaine in the Terrasses du Larzac in the Languedoc, where the soils are stony and the air is perfumed with the aromas of rosemary and thyme. The 2005 Las Flors is a blend of 40% Syrah, 40% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre, assembled in the capable hands of the young Jérémie Depierre, who staged at Chateau Margaux and Guiraud. This may be one of the finest wines to come from this region, and it is a steal at only $19.99. 14.5% abv.