2003 Moet & Chandon "Cuvée Dom Pérignon" Brut Champagne
**Collectibles** The whole is greater than the sum of the parts in this harmonious version. A delicate bead caresses the mouth, while flavors of currant pâte de fruit, dried apricot, pastry and pickled ginger expand on the palate. Subtly floral, with a fine frame of acidity driving this to the mouthwatering finish of smoky mineral and dried fruit. Drink now through 2030.
One of the most intriguing wines ever made here, the 2003 Dom Pérignon continues to fascinate. Rich, vinous and deep, the 2003 has the structure of a Pinot-based Champagne, but much of the freshness of a Blanc de Blancs. Not surprisingly, the 2003 is 62% Pinot, and all of that comes through in the wine's breadth and pure textural richness. At times, the 2003 is deep and even somber, but it is always intriguing. A bouquet laced with honey and chamomile is quite classic, but then the wine blossoms on the palate, with tons of Pinot-inflected fruit backed up by equally commanding structure. There is no question the 2003 is an extreme wine, but it is compelling just the same.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2003 is one of the most unusual Dom Perignons I have ever tasted, going back to 1952. Readers will remember that 2003 was a torrid vintage across northern Europe...The 2003 Dom Perignon is a big, broad shouldered wine. It does not have the seductiveness of the 2000, nor the power of the 2002. It is instead very much its own wine. In 2003 Geoffroy elected to use more Pinot Noir than is typically the case, and that comes through in the wine’s breath and volume. The 2003 is a big, powerful Champagne that will require quite a bit of time to shed some of its baby fat. The trademark textural finesse is there, though. I expect the 2003 to be a highly divisive Champagne because of its extreme personality, but then again, many of the world’s legendary wines were made from vintages considered freakish at the time. The 2003 is an atypically, rich, powerful, vinous Dom Perignon loaded with fruit, structure and personality. It is not for the timid, but rather it is a wine for those who can be patient. No one has a crystal ball, but personally I will not be surprised if in 20 years’ time the 2003 is considered an iconic Champagne. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2038. 94+ (AG)