2009 Lestruelle, Médoc
Nicely toasty, with vanilla and espresso notes up front, but the core of raspberry, blackberry and boysenberry fruit rushes in behind it, with a long, licorice-filled finish. Should settle in nicely. Stéphane Derenoncourt consulting here. Best from 2012 through 2017.
You heard it from K&L's own Clyde Beffa, Jr. (see below): "Buy cases of this." For $15 less a penny, here's an ultra-value, everyday Bordeaux that's got real, up-front fruit flavors.