1989 D'Oliveira Malvasia Madeira
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 1989 Malvasia needs coaxing to eke out the aromas, but they soon muster courage and offer attractive scents of melted candle wax, quince, walnut oil and tangy marmalade. The palate is well-balanced with very crisp acidity that cuts through this Madeira with ease. There are delightful hazelnut and dried honey notes towards the finish, which shows more composure than the 1990 Malvasia. This is well-worth seeking out.
Having spent 22 years in cask, this beautiful Malvasia was recently bottled and currently shows every bit of that tense interplay between sweetness and acidity, oxidative woody tones and bright freshness, which makes Madeira so great. Vintage Madeira is indeed great stuff, and the best part is that this wine loves air: know that you can keep a bottle of Madeira open for months, even several years, without any degradation in flavor. This makes these wines great values and highly collectible. (Joe Manekin, K&L Spanish & Portuguese Wine Buyer)