2009 Domaine Didier Dagueneau "Blanc Fumé de Pouilly"

SKU #1073178 91-92 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

 There is as usual nothing mundane about the 'basic' Dagueneau cuvee, the estate’s 2009 Blanc Fume de Pouilly. This is the sole cuvee at its address to blend across two soil types--Marne chalk and silex--as well as across several far-flung parcels, some of which were hailed on this year, and the parts had not yet been assembled for this 2009 when I tasted in June, so I offer only a composite impression. Smoky red currant, lime, and nettle display an aromatic pungency that coincides with a bright, energetic, silken-textured, very pure palate impression. White peach and wafting florality are conveyed by the (in this vintage, one-third) Marne chalk portion. The suffusion of chalk here is as usual impressive without in any way blocking the mouth-watering flow of fruit, and the same can be said as far as the influence of wood is concerned. This finishes with vibratory intensity and ringing clarity, as though it had been grown in a vintage from which nobody else in the region got to make wine. Expect it to be worth following for at least 6-8 years. (91-92+)  (8/ 2010)

K&L Notes

When an iconic winemaker dies, especially long before his time, oenophiles mourn. And they wonder. Will whomever takes over the estate ever be able to meet their expectations? In the case of Louis-Benjamin Dagueneau, who took over the family estate after his father Didier Dagueneau's tragic death in 2008, the answer is yes. Recognized by Wine & Spirits Magazine in their recent "30 Under 30" feature, the 28-year-old has "picked up the role masterfully and courageously," according to Olivier Jullien of Mas Jullien, a close family friend. "He manages to express his terroirs in a very pure, essential way." Dagueneau himself says, "To continue to keep alive what my father built is important to me. And the domaine must continue to evolve in that same spirit." David Schildknecht, writing for Parker's Advocate says: "Tasting at this address has never been more exciting and the wines have never been more evidently at the summit of the Loire Sauvignon pecking order."

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By: Sarah Covey |  K&L Staff Member  |  Review Date: 11/4/2011  | Send Email
White stone fruits, lemon, and pear jump out of the nose and onto the palate. Pretty minerality unlies it all. Luscious, rich, luxurious mouthfeel- a classic Daguneau pouilly fume! Treat yourself to an armchair trip to the Loire Valley with a glass of this beautiful wine!

Additional Information:

Varietal:

Sauvignon Blanc

- One of the best known "international" varieties originally cultivated in France and considered the parent of, with Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon. Sauvignon's wonderfully distinctive aromatics generate some of wine's most colorful descriptors, among them "cat pee," herbaceous, grassy, citrusy the world over. In France, the apex of Sauvignon Blanc production is the Loire Valley, in the appellations of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, where the terroir expresses itself most beautifully through the grape. Sauvignon Blanc is also the leading white grape varietal in Bordeaux, where it is paired with the fatter, richer Sémillon to varying degrees. Relatively easy to cultivate, though more suited to cool climates, Sauvignon Blanc has made inroads in Europe outside of France, especially in Northeastern Italy's Friuli and Alto Adige, but also on the Slovenian border. These lovely wines are often overshadowed by Sauvignon Blanc's achievements in the New World, namely New Zealand, South Africa and California. New Zealand's Sauvignon Blancs, more conspicuously fruity than most French examples, landed the small island nation on the world wine map in the late-1980s and 1990s. South African Sauvignons are one of the most successful international varieties produced in that country and are often quite elegant and affordable. In California, Robert Mondavi managed to, almost single-handedly, created a market for Sauvignon Blanc by renaming his oak-fermented version Fumé Blanc. While some wineries still use the name, California Sauvignon Blanc has secured its place in the California wine pantheon, particularly those from the Napa Valley. Washington State, Chile and Argentina also have considerable plantings of the grape.
Country:

France

- When it comes to wine, France stands alone. No other country can beat it in terms of quality and diversity. And while many of its Region, Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne most obviously, produce wine as rare, as sought-after and nearly as expensive as gold, there are just as many obscurities and values to be had from little known appellations throughout the country. To learn everything there is to know about French wine would take a lifetime. To understand and appreciate French wine, one only has to begin tasting them. Click for a list of bestselling items from all of France.
Sub-Region:

Loire

- Of all of the French wine producing regions, the Loire might produces the greatest variety of wines. They range from still to sparkling, very dry and acidic to hearty sweet, and clear in color to a deep purple. The diversity of wine produced in this region is due in part to its dynamic climate, which ranges from Continental to Mediterranean. This region is best known for Sauvignon blanc, Chenin blanc and Cabernet Franc. The most famous areas in the Loire Valley may be Sancerre and Vouvray.