2010 Michel Delhommeau "Harmonie" Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie
This has lots of zip and snap, with crackling lime, gooseberry and sea salt notes all cutting through from start to finish. Begs for some oysters or an ash-coated chèvre. Drink now through 2012.
Michel & Nathalie Delhommeau farm 28 hectares of vines planted on almost pure rock in this region. Dominating the estate is a rock called gabbro which is essentially rock formed from molten lava. Many of the vines are quite old, producing low yields and very complex bottlings. Michel vinifies only by soil type, separates tanks out by vine age, and keeps volumes quite low. Aside from producing great wine, this young couple represents the opposite of the jaded and often pretentious winemaker set one can easily find. Humble and quite, they are turning out impressively complex bottlings of Muscadet that often smell more like great Chardonnay from Chablis as anything else. From a single parcel of old vines planted on gabbro soils, the Harmonie is a smack in the face with its sharp, stony minerality. But that component is matched and balanced with rich tropical notes of mango and pineapple. A very nice snap runs through the middle and zingy sharp finish leaves your lips smacking for another sip.