2006 Pedralonga do Umia Tinto (Previously $20)
Miguel Pedralonga’s vineyard is a marvel. First, it is 7 continuous hectares, which is unheard of in this region of tiny scattered plots. The vineyard is bordered by woods, which protect and provide habitat for amazingly diverse species of plant and animal. The vineyard itself looks, smells and sounds like a teeming jungle. Half of his vines are pie franco, or ungrafted. Miguel has always followed the old Galician traditions of polyculture and attention to nature’s rhythyms. Other people say he’s a biodynamic farmer. He has only 30cm of topsoil on solid rock, so the wines are extremely structured and mineral, and they benefit from time in bottle or decanter. The red is produced from caiño, espadeiro and mencía, and is wonderfully aromatic and fresh, with very reasonable alcohol and a terrific persistence of flavor. Delicious stuff.