1990 Dom Pérignon Oenothèque Brut Rosé Champagne
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 1990 is the first Dom Perignon Rose to be released as part of the Oenotheque program and is also the year Richard Geoffroy was appointed to his post as Chef de Caves. This is a hypnotic, mesmerizing wine that is unlike any Champagne I have ever tasted. A burnished, deep orange, the wine emerges from the glass with delicate layers of truffles, mushrooms, tea and autumn leaves that recall a great, mature Grand Cru red Burgundy. Candied orange peel, dried roses, spices, apricot jam and white pepper are some of the notes that develop with air. Despite its vivid, textured personality the wine hovers on the palate in a weightless, ethereal style. Geoffroy served the 1990 Rose Oenotheque in the new Riedel Burgundy glass, which worked beautifully, although this drinking experience may not be for everybody. With air, the 1990 Rose Oeenotheque naturally loses much of its effervescence and turns more wine-like. Though undeniably beautiful, this is a highly quirky wine that should only be purchased by readers familiar with aged rose Champagne or those with an open mind, because it will challenge many preconceptions of what Champagne is and can be. At an estimated $900 a bottle, it won’t come cheaply, either. That said, it is marvelous and totally compelling.
This 20-year-old Champagne, just released by Moët, is beautiful, ripe, toasty, the fruit translated into almonds, French toast and searing, intense mature acidity.
This is the first-ever Oenothèque Rosé from one of the most renowned producers in Champagne. The 1990 Oenothèque has been resting in the cellar for 20 years, evolving and gaining complexity until now. A lovely coral color, the wine has an exotic bouquet redolent of papaya, curry leaves, cardamom and candied citrus zest. There's also an subtle saline note and a hint of hazelnut when the Champagne gets some air. On the palate, the wine is full and focused with a langourous bead beautifully expressing the notes from the nose.