Pommery "Brut Apanage" Champagne (Previously $50.)
Dry and toasty, this has good cut and a light chalkiness structuring flavors of green pear, cassis, toasted brioche and a hint of almond cream. Offers a lasting, juicy finish of smoky mineral and dried fruit. Drink now through 2018.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
(60% chardonnay, 20% pinot noir and 20% pinot meunier; L12432038): Bright yellow-gold. Aromas and flavors of lemon, pear, fig and honeysuckle, with a hint of toasty lees. Dry, juicy and focused, with nicely integrated acidity adding bite to a nervy finish. Clean and straightforward Champagne that would match well with delicate seafood preparations.
Wine & Spirits
Golden maturity shows in the color of the wine and its autumnal scents of pumpkin, spice and apples. Acidity keeps the flavors from broadening out, holding them with a buzz of chalk dust. Serve this with roast game hens.
Pommery’s nonvintage is very much in the light, feathery house style. It is a wine that floats in the mouth, aided by a fine mousse. The finish is soft, with delicate acidity.
This Champagne was made by Pommery specifically for pairing with food. It is aged six months longer than the Brut Royal, for a total of 42 months on the lees. The dosage is lower, and the selection far more strict: only half of the forty villages that go into the Royal make the cut for the Apanage. I would suggest pairing this with a rich fish dish, or even a chicken entrée with a cream sauce. (Gary Westby, K&L Champagne Buyer)