2002 Louis Roederer "Cristal" Brut Rosé Champagne

100 points Wine & Spirits: "If a wine could ever make you want to pull the top down on your '68 Ferrari convertible. rip off the rearview mirror and take off, this is it...All the scents and flavors seem to emanate from limestone, as does the acdity, which hits at the front of the mouth and powers through the wine with the kind of solar energy that lifts mist of the white chalk on a cool morning in Cramant. The wine goes on for miles. It's already irresistible, and will only improve with ten, 20, 30 and 40 years of age." (12/09) This is very special wine, made only in great vintages, and then only rarely offered at retail (Roederer prefers to see it on wine lists at famous restaurants rather than hidden in cellars). It is a pity, since this great Champagne's best years are ahead of it. It is an entirely estate grown, largely organic Champagne. The Pinot Noir, which composes 60% of the blend, is from very old vines in the house's best plots in the Grand Cru of Ay that are all organic. The Chardonnay that makes up the other 40% of the blend is from mostly Grand Cru and some Premier Cru estate vineyards in the Cotes de Blancs. The 2002 vintage in Champagne was fantastic, with much in common with 1990; a mild winter and less than average rain fall produced wines with high natural sugar. Unlike 1990, there were few hot days, giving the wines an extra element of grace. Cristal Rosé is the most elegant and refined of wines, and the 2002 should keep for decades. (Gary Westby, K&L)