1998 Krug Brut Champagne
*A Collectibles Designation* Displays precision focus and detail, framed by well-honed acidity and offering fine, pointillist-like texture. Rich, with layer upon layer of flavor, showing fruit and floral notes of dried apricot and pineapple, chamomile and crystallized honey and savory notes of ground coffee, roast almond, dried herbs and oyster shell. Ends with a long, long, mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2028.
Wine & Spirits
An ornate and powerful vintage for the cellars of krugistes, this is breathtaking Champagne. It is as layered and complex as a grand cru Burgundy, though more searing in its adolescent acidity, leaving a tooth buzz in its wake. With air, the layers of the wine begin to show in flavors of marzipan, fresh cream and an underlying essence of limestone. It's severe on the surface, kinder underneath. Altogether complete and needing five to ten years of bottle age to build into its full grandeur.
*Cellar Selection* Although the aromas are toasty, the flavors are still so fresh, rich, complex. This is a wonderful expression of taut minerality, pure citrus zest and then a wood-toast character that gives the wine both richness and sophistication. Given the fresh, intense fruit, this will certainly age for many years.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 1998 vintage has a very alluring nose of brioche, crushed stones, allspice, peaches and fresh pears plus a hint of praline. The palate is still very tight and youthful with a fine acid backbone, commendably persistent bubbles and a long minerally finish.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Vivid gold. Deeply pitched aromas of candied citrus fruits, pear skin, peach, anise and smoky herbs, with slow-building florality. Toasty and broad, showing impressive power and focus to its ripe orange and pit fruit flavors. Brighter on the finish, which hangs on with excellent tenacity and leaves behind notes of candied nuts, flowers and citrus pith. This Champagne has loosened up a bit since I tasted it last year and is showing more complexity, but it still deserves some patience, or at least an hour of air.
From Jancis Robinson: "Very, very fine bead. Very discreet and beautifully constructed. Very dense. Like a ship, constructed bit by bit. Dry finish. Needs food! A great rarity: a Krug with more Chardonnay than Pinot Noir. 19.5/20 points" (03/2012)