2004 Pinino "Clandestino" Brunello di Montalcino

SKU #1048656

90 points Wine Spectator: "Has blackberries and fresh mushrooms, with hints of flowers on the nose following through to a full body, with soft, silky tannins and a fresh finish. A little short, but outstanding nonetheless. Give it a little more bottle age. Best after 2009." (Web only, 2009) 90 points Wine Enthusiast: "Clandestino is a seductively ripe and full expression of Brunello and it successfully carries that depth and density to the back corners of the palate. It delivers bold flavors of cherry and liquid smoke that are lavished over tightly textured tannins." (06/09) Gold Medal Decanter World Wine Awards 2009. ****4 stars from K&L's Italian wine buyer, Greg St. Clair: "The label for this wine is similar to the wine; the eyes hold your attention while veils of aromatics swirl around your head, layers of sweet fruit coupled with hints of spice and herbs have a bold yet yielding expression. On the palate, the wine stretches out and begins to gain its stride, loping effortlessly, filled with sweet expressions of wild cherry and plum with hints of spice. Long and elegant on the palate, this wine finishes with hints of spice and earth that act like bits of mystique floating through to the end. This wine will have an excellent future and drinks very well now with a bit of aeration." 525 cases produced.

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Price: $39.99

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By: David Driscoll |  K&L Staff Member  |  Review Date: 6/28/2009  | Send Email
Dark, brooding, and black wine with rich port-like aromas and dark cherry fruit. Hints of chocolate with a full-bodied lush palate, with less structure and tannin than the average Brunello. This is far more elegant and reserved that the standard bottling. It should be spectacular.

Additional Information:

Varietal:

Sangiovese

- The most widely planted grape in Italy is Sangiovese, a high-acid grape with moderate to high tannins, apparent earthiness and subtle fruit. It is thought to have originated in Tuscany and its name, which translates to "blood of Jove," leads historians to believe it may date all the way back to the Etruscan period, though historical mentions only go as far back as the early 1700s. Though planted all over modern Italy, the most significant wines made from Sangiovese still come from Tuscany: Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino. Sangiovese must make up 75% of a blend from the Chianti DOCG t be labeled as such, traditionally allowing for Canaiolo, Trebbiano and Malvasia for the remainder, though more recently small proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot have been allowed. In Brunello di Montalcino the wine must be made entirely of Sangiovese. Prugnolo is Montepulciano's name for Sangiovese, and it is used there for the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wines. In the DOC of Carmignano Sangiovese can be blended with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. There are also Super Tuscans, IGT wines that blend Sangiovese with large proportions of Cabernet or Merlot. Elsewhere in Italy it is a workhorse grape, though it does find some success (though not the longevity) in the Montefalco and Torgiano wines of Umbria as well as the foundation of Rosso Piceno and a significant element of Rosso Conero from the Marches. Like Nebbiolo, Sangiovese has struggled to find footing outside of Italy, though in recent years California wineries have been having better fortune with grape plantings in the Sierra Foothills/El Dorado County, as well as Sonoma County and the Central Coast.
Country:

Italy

- Once named Enotria for its abundant vineyards, Italy (thanks to the ancient Greeks and Romans) has had an enormous impact on the wine world. From the shores of Italy, the Romans brought grapes and their winemaking techniques to North Africa, Spain and Portugal, Germany, France, the Danube Valley, the Middle East and even England. Modern Italy, which didn't actually exist as a country until the 1870s, once produced mainly simple, everyday wine. It wasn't until the 1970s that Italy began the change toward quality. The 1980s showed incredible efforts and a lot of experimentation. The 1990s marked the real jump in consistent quality, including excellence in many Region that had been indistinct for ages. The entire Italian peninsula is seeing a winemaking revolution and is now one of the most exciting wine Region in the world. For our entire Italian wine selection, click here. Click for a list of bestselling items from all of Italy.
Sub-Region:

Tuscany

Specific Appellation:

Brunello di Montalcino

- Made from 100% Sangiovese grapes from a specific clone called "Brunello" in the town of Montalcino. Situated in the southwestern part of Tuscany the town of Montalcino sits on a ridge about 400 feet above the Eastern plain. This ridge divides the region into three diverse growing areas. The northeastern part produces wines with brighter fruit, more cherry and high tone notes and somewhat leaner body. The southeastern portion often referred to, as the "Golden Triangle" is the home of Biondi Santi, the family who invented Brunello and championed its production for half a century before anyone else. This region produces wines with rich body, deep ripe cherry to plum fruit with lots of earth and spice. The third portion is the southwesterly facing slope which is the warmest (hence the ripest grapes), consistently producing wines with more breadth and richness. At the turn of this century, there were more than 150 growers who produce the 233,000 cases annually from the 2863 acres inscribed to Brunello.