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By: Jim Barr |
K&L Staff Member |
Review Date: 2/28/2011
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Believe or not there are still a handful of Cabernet producers in California, and specifically in Napa Valley, that produce Cabernet the way it used to be made back in the 1950s, `60s, `70s, and `80s; wines with structure, backbone, balance, complexity, reasonable alcohol levels and that can age gracefully for a decade or more. And, it is obvious that this small lot of traditional producers couldn’t care less how many 90+ points are given by certain wine critics or publications. The Smith-Madrone Winery and Vineyard, located three quarters the way up Spring Mountain overlooking Saint Helena, is among this tiny handful of traditionalist. Their 2004 Estate Cabernet is deeply colored with opulent, powerful aromas of cassis, currants, blackberries, and violets, highlighted by cedar and a stone-y minerality. All this carries over, nicely, in the mouth with the added feature of silky integrated, fine tannins, excellent acid structure, wonderful complexity and layers of fruit, and a finish that lingers and lingers and… Anderson and I have had a case and half of this excellent Gem in our cellar for the past two years and, occasionally, uncork a bottle to have with a special dinner, and it keeps getting better and better. And, it is under 14% alcohol. (Jim Barr)
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