Philipponnat Brut Reserve Rosée
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
(70% pinot noir, 25% chardonnay and 5% pinot meunier; based on the 2007 vintage; disgorged November, 2011; LRO71320BT): Pale orange. Spicy red fruits, rose pastille and smoky minerals on the nose. Round and seamless in the mouth, offering juicy strawberry and tangerine flavors and a touch of tarragon. Deep but lively as well, showing no excess fat. Closes smooth and sappy, with excellent focus and persistence and a lingering floral quality.
Lightly juicy, this well-balanced version offers a smoky base note to flavors of dried cherry, raspberry, and raw almond, with a rich hint of peach pie. Lively, with bright acidity creating a firm backbone. Disgorged July 2012. Drink now through 2018. 5,000 cases made.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The performance of Philipponnat's NV Brut Reserve Rosee Disg. 3/2013 (yes, spelled with two "e"s) fascinates but also puzzles me a bit, since in principle this represents more or less "the same" cuvee as the Brut Reserve tasted alongside, except with the addition of some still Pinot Noir. But then, I'm forced to remind myself that one can never change just a single aspect of a wine, since each addition or subtraction potentially influences the expression of myriad components. In any case, this rose not only adds tart-edged, highly stimulating fresh red raspberry and rhubarb to the luscious juiciness of white peach, but also somehow engenders a sense of mid-palate sap, finishing persistence, and intrigue - by way of subtly, nobly fungal suggestions as well as hints of chalk - that its "white" counterpart lacked. This ought to remain delicious over the next couple of years.
The NV Brut Reserve Rosé is another attractive, entry-level wine from Philipponnat. Tangerine, flower and mint notes all take shape in the glass. This version of the Rosé is bright, gracious and very nicely delineated, with lovely balance and plenty of early appeal. The flavors have begun to move just slightly beyond primary, so I wouldn't hold on this for more than 2-3 years. The current release is based on 2007 with the addition of 24% reserve wines, and was disgorged in July 2012.