2003 Elderton "Command" Shiraz Barossa Valley
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
While the deep plum/ruby/garnet-tinged 2003 Shiraz Command is slightly less nuanced than the 2002, it is just as powerful and full-bodied, offering copious quantities of fruit, glycerin, tannin, and muscle. This chewy, rich offering appears to be on a faster evolutionary track than its 2002 counterpart. Give it another 2-3 years of bottle age, and consume it over the following 12-15.
Big, ripe and generous. This is a plush mouthful of cherry, spice and mineral flavors that rush on the finish, managing to stay in perfect balance. Has depth and grace. Best from 2009 through 2018.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Saturated ruby. Rich, oak-spicy nose shows liqueur-like boysenberry, candied plum and kirsch aromas, plus a good whack of vanilla. Outsized and thick, with dense, sweet dark berry flavors and an almost viscous texture. And yet this massive wine comes across as energetic and surprisingly elegant. The long, sappy finish features powerful dark berry liqueur flavors that won't quit.
Despite a tough vintage, this is a lush, complete wine. Vanilla and cedar notes on the nose serve to accent the layers of intense—verging on syrupy—blackberry fruit. It’s easy enough to drink now, but rich enough that you may want to hold it another couple of years. Just don’t expect this one to age more than a decade.