1998 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
*Top 100 Wines of 2000* Vibrant. Clean and lively, with lovely midpalate concentration, this medium- to full-bodied white Burgundy is straight as an arrow. Fabulous balance of subtle toasted oak and ripe fruit. An ager.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Unlike his colleagues in Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, de la Moriniere did not have any frost or hail damage (and only traces of oidium) in 1998. However, the famed Corton hill, on which is located Corton-Charlemagne, was not spared nature's wrath. The searing sun and heat of August burnt a significant percentage of the grapes, so de la Moriniere was compelled "to sort like crazy". While he wishes he could have harvested earlier, my impression is that his 1998 Corton-Charlemagne benefitted from the extra hang time by gaining richness, breadth, opulence, and riper acidities. Its delightful tropical fruit (pineapple and passion fruit) and spiced apple aromas lead to its velvety-textured, medium-bodied personality. This is a harmonious 1998, without any of the angular acid and tart aspects that typify so many of this difficult vintage's efforts. Its long seamless finish, and dense, fruit-packed character are outstanding.
One of the best producers of Corton Charlemagne, Bonneau du Martray always makes focused, linear Corton, which benefits from some time in the bottle. This has the pronounced minerality which is the hallmark of this wine, but also a richer and more honeyed side from the toasty oak. Showing well now. This was selected by the domaine, and shipped directly from their cellars in a refrigerated container. (Keith Wollenberg, K&L Wines)