Gosset "Brut Excellence" Champagne
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Vivid yellow. Powerful, mineral-accented orchard fruits and Meyer lemon the nose, with a sexy floral nuance adding complexity. Stains the palate with concentrated pear, melon and lemon curd flavors, with a smoky, leesy quality building with aeration. Surprisingly lively for its depth of flavor thanks to bright, nervy acidity and a chalky quality. Closes long and toasty, with excellent clarity and lift.
Refined and creamy, with delicate acidity that finds fine balance with the layers of poached apple and pear, lemon cake, ground ginger, smoke and almond cream flavors. Very elegant. Drink now through 2020.
Wine & Spirits
Flinty at first, this yields scents of orange blossoms and jasmine. It's a rich and robust Champagne, balanced by firm minerality. For sea bass roasted with chanterelles.
Tense and crisp, this is a balanced food-friendly Champagne. It is dry, and its apple- and citrus-like acidity has rounded out with some bottle age. The acidity cuts right through to give the wine a great lift of freshness on the finish.
True to the house style that embraces a lighter and somewhat exotic fruit presence, this basic Brut combines lightly toasty notes of autolysis with hints of pears and green apples. Its mid-strength carbonation is well fit to its quietly rich, sweet lemon peel initial flavors with their intimation of aged yeast for a glimpse of added interest and complexity.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The NV Brut Excellence is a pretty, expressive wine that makes a good introduction to the house style. Clean veins of minerality support the fruit in this mid-weight, attractive wine. Pears, flowers and sweet spices are nicely layered into the finish. This is Lot # L0418110. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014.
Gosset is small for a grand marque. At 50,000 cases a year total production they make about as much Champagne as Krug. They are located in Ay, the heart of Champagne, along with Bollinger, Deutz and De Meric, and they have been making wine there since 1584, the oldest currently operating wine producer in Champagne. None of their Champagnes ever go through malolactic. On their website, they list the Brut Excellence as being composed of 36% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir (all from Grand and Premier Cru vineyards) and 19% Pinot Meunier, including 24% reserve wines from two vintages. When I met the sales manager of Gosset, she told me that they also use a small amount of Fromenteau (Pinot Gris) Petit Meslier and Arbanne in this reserve wine. Those are the almost extinct, native varietals of Champagne, and it would certainly explain some of Gosset's exotic complexity if they were indeed in the blend. This is rich, layered Champagne with brioche and pear aromas and a long, bright finish from the suppressed malo. It is snappy enough to serve for toasting, but has enough guts for a salmon dinner and enough exotic intrigue to keep the interest of a Champagne enthusiast all night. It should keep well, and even improve for a couple of years. (Gary Westby, K&L Champagne buyer)