1998 Bodegas Muga "Prado Enea" Gran Reserva Rioja
Wine & Spirits
Muga's classical gran reserva leads off with layers of complexity in '98. Scents of cherry liqueur and game form a rich harmony, a bright major chord in the center of darker, mature tannins. Those tannins have softened to a caress, with pliant refinement for roast partridge or squab.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Medium red. Dried cherry, plum and coconut on the nose, with complicating notes of dried rose, baking spices and musky underbrush. Lush red fruit and vanillin oak flavors are supple and sweet. Very soft tannins add a light chewiness to the impressively long, spicy finish. Very pretty stuff.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 1998 Prado Enea Gran Reserva is ready for prime time. It gives up a complex nose of spice box, sage, thyme, balsamic, black cherry, and blackberry. Smooth and elegant on the palate, it can be approached now but will drink well for another 15 years. (JM)