By: Gary Westby | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: 1/14/2009 | Send Email
The subject of perfection in particular wines I leave to journalists, but this wine has tempted me to ignore that good policy. I have been lucky enough to have this wine more than five times, and it is perfect in a number of senses of that over used word. If one takes perfect to mean "to finish" then the '70 Graham is perfect twice: it is completely ready and finished maturing (though I am sure it will continue to keep for years to come), and I dare you not to finish this bottle with the right group. If one follows Aristotle’s three criteria for perfection, the 1970 Graham more than flirts with meeting them. The wine has "all of its requisite parts"- freshly preserved dark fruit, rich sweetness and tannic power. It certainly has "attained its purpose" after nearly 40 years, with mature complexity, a ruby glow and a finish that blossoms long after swallowing the wine. As for being, "so good that nothing of the kind could be better," I will be happy to continue to compare... This wine certainly meets my own criteria for perfection in wine - it leaves me not only wanting for nothing, but surprises me with aroma, flavor and persistence that I did not even think to want. Most importantly, it is seamless, and defies the flavor wheel descriptors that are tacked on to so many wines. If you splurge on this, please treat it with respect, and it give it the three months it deserves to settle so it will decant cleanly- Graham only made this perfect 1970 once!
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