2011 Hatzidakis Assyrtiko Santorini
Wine & Spirits
This is Santorini magnified, a huge mouthful of sun, salt and chalk. It feels leesy and broad, supported by strident, grapefruity acidity and a savory wash of seawater saltiness. For all its size, it lifts off the palate in a cloud, a long-lasting blast of island air that lingers indefinitely. Drink it now with rich dishes, or cellar it another decade.
Mmm. Smell those volcanic soils! No euro jokes, please. This is Greek wine at its finest. Racy and reviving with a beginning, middle and end to the thoroughly satisfying experience. Laurel leaf flavours. Dense and long. Great stuff! (17/20)
The deets: "90% Assyrtiko, 5% Aidani and 5% Athiri grown on south and east facing slopes on Santorini's volcanic soils. Harvested by hand in early August with a yield of 2,000-4,000 kgs/ha. Planted at a density of 2,000 - 2,500 vines/ha and pruned and trained into a circular basket shape to protect grapes from the Meltemi wind and intense Greek island sun. Not irrigated, thriving on the humidity of the night air. Phylloxera never reached Santorini due to the dry volcanic ash soils - so the vines are over 100 years old. Gentle pressing, then fermented in stainless-steel tanks at 16-18°C for 30-50 days. Aged in tank for four to six months with two months on lees with stirring. Winemaker Haridimos Hatzidakis. Suitable for vegetarians and vegans. TA 5.8 g/l, pH 3.10, RS 2.43 g/l." (From JancisRobinson.com)