2010 Domaine Didier Dagueneau "Pur Sang" Pouilly-Fumé
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Musky, faintly fusil, smoky, and pungent citrus oil aromas introduce the Dagueneau 2010 Blanc Fume de Pouilly Pur Sang, all of which have their piquant tactile and flavor counterparts on a dense but bright palate. Maritime saline and alkaline notes stimulate the salivary glands; nut oils add deep richness to a juicy matrix of grapefruit and lemon; while chalk, stone, and smoky black tea serve inform a dynamic interplay that lingers long and deliciously. This is one of those Dagueneau wines that display a hint of spice and sweetness borne of oak, but this is well-integrated into the superbly complex whole that is this outstanding (immediately pre-bottling) performance. I would expect to derive excitement for at least the next decade. (DS)
Very pure, intense and steely. Such intensity! This admirably spreads across the palate but is actually very tight on the finish. Still chewy and youthful with the aroma of blackcurrant leaves. Every Pouilly and Sancerre producer should try this. 17.5/20 points.
When an iconic winemaker dies, especially long before his time, oenophiles mourn. And they wonder. Will whomever takes over the estate ever be able to meet their expectations? In the case of Louis-Benjamin Dagueneau, who took over the family estate after his father Didier Dagueneau's tragic death in 2008, the answer is yes. Recognized by Wine & Spirits Magazine in their recent "30 Under 30" feature, the 28-year-old has "picked up the role masterfully and courageously," according to Olivier Jullien of Mas Jullien, a close family friend. "He manages to express his terroirs in a very pure, essential way." Dagueneau himself says, "To continue to keep alive what my father built is important to me. And the domaine must continue to evolve in that same spirit." David Schildknecht, writing for Parker's Advocate says: "Tasting at this address has never been more exciting and the wines have never been more evidently at the summit of the Loire Sauvignon pecking order."