2010 Domaine Didier Dagueneau "Silex" Pouilly-Fumé
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
A pungent suggestion of diverse hedge flowers and high-toned herbs rises from the glass of Dagueneau 2010 Blanc Fume de Pouilly Silex; then migrates to a palate dominated by succulent grapefruit, white peach, and cassis. Breadth, opulence, sheer extract, a silken texture, and high glycerin, all seem to enhance this Sauvignon’s sense of sweet ripeness, though citrus zest and berry skin lend satisfying counterpoint. There is resonance and depth to the finish here, and if for now not quite the dazzling complexity of the corresponding Sancerre Monts Damnes, then certainly a compelling performance that promises to be worth revisiting over the next dozen or more years.
When an iconic winemaker dies, especially long before his time, oenophiles mourn. And they wonder. Will whomever takes over the estate ever be able to meet their expectations? In the case of Louis-Benjamin Dagueneau, who took over the family estate after his father Didier Dagueneau's tragic death in 2008, the answer is yes. Recognized by Wine & Spirits Magazine in their recent "30 Under 30" feature, the 28-year-old has "picked up the role masterfully and courageously," according to Olivier Jullien of Mas Jullien, a close family friend. "He manages to express his terroirs in a very pure, essential way." Dagueneau himself says, "To continue to keep alive what my father built is important to me. And the domaine must continue to evolve in that same spirit." The 2010 Louis-Benjamin Dagueneau "Silex" is the Silex you'd expect from the domaine in this vintage. David Schildknecht, writing for Parker's Advocate says: "Tasting at this address has never been more exciting and the wines have never been more evidently at the summit of the Loire Sauvignon pecking order."