Gosset "Grande Reserve" Brut Champagne
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
(L223 8113): Vivid yellow. Musky, spice-accented aromas of nectarine, poached pear and chamomile, with a chalky mineral overtone. Juicy and palate-staining, offering densely packed orchard fruit and orange pith flavors accented by nutmeg, white pepper and candied ginger. Finishes smoky and very long, with resonating spiciness and excellent clarity.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The NV Brut Grande Reserve opens with a bouquet of chalk, slate and wet stones. It is a beautifully pointed, energetic wine endowed with gorgeous drive from start to finish. Red berries, dried flowers and mint are some of the nuances that inform the finish. This is Lot # L0428123. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016. This is a strong set of wines from Gosset. Unfortunately there are no new vintage releases this year. All of these wines are made in the very dry style that is the Gosset signature.
Lively, with good balance and subtle flavors of green apple, Meyer lemon, chalk and spice. Lightly crunchy, with a fresh, lip-smacking finish. Drink now.
Wine & Spirits
This Grand Reserve, a blend of the '05, '06 and '07 vintages, has a higher proportion of Chardonnay than the Brut Excellence. It is bold, savory and intense, powered by flinty minerality. The citrus flavors broaden into the finish, almost blunt in their density. It should develop well with a year or two in bottle.
Based on 2005. Disgorged April 2010, thinks the rep. Very nervy and muscular. Excellent balance -- not too sweet, not too tart. 17/20 points.
Gosset is a traditional producer, using a proportion of old oak for the Grand Reserve. None of their Champagnes ever go through malolactic. On their web site, they list the Grand Reserve as being composed of 46% Chardonnay, 39% Pinot Noir and 15% Pinot Meunier including 12% reserve wines from two vintages. When I met the sales manager of Gosset, she told me that they also use a small amount of Fromenteau (Pinot Gris) Petit Meslier & Arbanne in this reserve wine. Those are the almost extinct, native varietals of Champagne and it would certainly explain some of the Grand Reserve's exotic complexity if they were indeed in the blend. This is big, rich, layered Champagne with brioche and pear aromas and a long, bright finish from the suppressed malo. It is snappy enough to serve for toasting, but has enough guts for a salmon dinner and enough exotic intrigue to keep the interest of a Champagne enthusiast all night. It should keep well, and even improve for a couple of years if you like the taste of aged Champagne. (Gary Westby, K&L Champagne buyer)