1964 Taylor Fladgate "Very Old Single Harvest" Tawny Port
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
I allowed my glass of 1964 Taylor’s Very Old Single Harvest Port a couple of hours to open up in the glass, monitoring its evolution along the way. It is not a shy or retiring Port. Clear mahogany in color with a slight green tinge on the rim, the nose races out of the blocks like a young terrier let free in the garden, with intense aromas of grilled walnut, smoke, brown sugar, hints of caramel and a fug of alcohol that ebbs with time. The palate is smooth and honeyed on the entry, a very seductive Port wine, quite sumptuous in style, but with enough volatile lift to maintain fieriness toward the viscous finish. I speculate that had the 1963s not been so prodigious, Taylor Fladgate would have elected to follow their 1960 declaration with a 1964. That is all in the past. It is a delicious Vintage Port firing on all cylinders, ready to drink and enjoy now rather than cellar.
**Best Buy** Properly old gold in color, this is a wine from a single year, aged in casks. It’s poised between amazing fruit and a wonderful velvet texture that is shot through with acidity. A feeling of lightness comes from the acidity that gives great freshness as well as complex flavors. It’s ready to drink.
Smooth, spicy and still fresh, with a subtly unfolding array of candied ginger, dried apple, citrus zest and marzipan flavors supported by bright acidity. Finishes with hints of anise and juniper. Drink now.
Taylor Fladgate holds an extensive reserve of old port casks, and each year they release a very limited bottling of a Single Harvest Tawny at 50 years of age. From Taylor: "During its five decades of ageing in oak casks, this wine has taken on an attractive pale mahogany colour with olive amber highlights. On the nose the wine displays fine oaky aromas and complex spicy, nutty, cigar box notes against a warm mellow background of butterscotch and molasses. The smooth velvety palate is lifted by a crisp acidity which gives the wine an attractive freshness in spite of its age. The finish is immensely long with rich, spicy, black pepper flavours lingering on the palate."