2005 Elderton "Command" Single Vineyard Shiraz Barossa Valley
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Elderton’s flagship is the single vineyard Command Shiraz, a wine with serious aging potential, and one with which all other South Australia Shiraz must be compared. The opaque purple/black 2005 Command Shiraz was aged in French and American oak puncheons (500-liter barrels). It offers up a sexy/kinky bouquet of wood smoke, lavender, leather, game, mineral, black raspberry, and blueberry pie. Voluptuous on the palate, complex, and dense, it demands a decade of cellaring after which it should offer hedonists much pleasure through 2035. (JM)
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Inky ruby color. Vibrant raspberry, cherry-vanilla and coconut aromas are complemented by candied licorice and smoky minerals. Pliant, palate-coating red and dark berry preserve flavors are perked up by Asian spices and smoky minerals. Pretty exotic but not over the top, with gentle tannins adding shape and focus to the long, sweet finish. This is downright sexy today.
Firm in texture, with beautifully poised blackberry, licorice and pepper flavors that seem to hover weightlessly over fine tannins, lingering enticingly on the long, expressive finish.
Lavish 34 months in American (dominant) and French oak has resulted in an army greatcoat of oak wrapped around the undeniably good fruit, the latter giving the palate length.
Vines planted 1894. They are apparently employing a historian to check the vine-planting records, and are paying him in wine. Rich and flattering with very nice balance. There’s a slight element of ‘dry port’ about it, lots of VA and alcohlol for example, but this is pure Oz. They age it first in new oak and then used oak apparently. You could enjoy this easily already. Apparently the 1986 and 1988 are drinking beautifully now! Unctuous. There’s a bit of salt and umami.